tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-222623602024-03-14T11:49:23.621-07:00Auto PartsAuto Parts News, Roomors, Tips, Tricks, Sources and Other Stuff You Always Wanted to Know About Auto PartsValikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-50458639324892373402007-09-26T21:19:00.000-07:002007-09-26T21:25:52.873-07:00New Beemer kisses a pole.<p align="center"><a href="http://www.mirru.com/images/2007-BMW-750-3.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://www.mirru.com/images/2007-BMW-750-3.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><p align="left">This 2007 BMW 750 is going to need a heep of parts to get it back on the road. Truthfuly, I don't think that anyone in their right mind will even dream about repairing this one. This is most likely destined for the auto parts yard. </p><p align="left">The auction in North Carolina had a few of these high end cars today. I will look out for the price next time so I can post it here. Wondering how much it sold for. </p><div align="left"></div>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-35526792891634189512007-05-28T09:06:00.000-07:002007-05-28T10:15:34.022-07:00Finding Used Auto Parts OnlineActually <strong>finding</strong> a used part online for your car is very simple if you know where to look. From looking on Yahoo Answers site and the emails and questions I get, there are a lot of people that are having a hard time finding the parts they are looking for. I thought this was common knowledge but I was wrong. So this post is my attempt to make it common knowledge.<br /><br /><p align="center"><a href="http://www.car-part.com"><img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/carpart.jpg" border="0"></a></p><p><a href="http://www.car-part.com">Car-Part.com</a> is it. This site is the most usefull used auto parts locator on the internet. If you go to their site you will see that you can enter the criteria into the form, click Search and you have an extensive list of parts that you can filter through by price, location, description, etc. <br /><br />The nice thing is that you can sort the search by location, where you will get a list of salvage yards and auto parts suppliers in your town that carry your part.<br /><br />I have used this site for over 6 years and it is still the most powerful used auto parts locator tool.Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-53077984663077479662007-05-25T07:41:00.000-07:002007-05-25T07:54:19.012-07:00Trademark InfrigementOpened up my email this morning and got a not-so-pleasant surprise.<p><br /><center><img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/infrig.jpg"></center><p><br /><br />SATA wants my domain, because I infringed on their trademark. This domain - satagun.com, was a good domain, good traffic producer. Haven't made a cent from it but nevertheless, was fun to own a good domain. When I got it I didn't even think about the trademark issue. I guess I should have.<br /><br />Oh well, next time I'll think twice before getting a domain that has a trademark in it.<br /><br />So remember 2 things boys and girls, 1 - SATAgun.com is closed and 2 - Don't buy a domain that has a trademark in it.<br /><br />I think I heard a story about someone getting their mcdonaldssomethingsomething domain taken away by mcdonalds, so be careful about picking your domain.Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-80528307404109622712007-05-18T17:50:00.000-07:002007-05-18T17:59:28.119-07:001998 Toyota T100Here's my Toyota T100. Finally done. This is the photo of what it looked like when I just bought it.<p><br /><a href="http://www.mirru.com"><img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/t100/before/right-front-full.jpg" width="400" border="0"></a></p><p>And here is the photo of it now.</p><p><br /><a href="http://www.mirru.com"><img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/t100/done/2.jpg" width="400" border="0"></a></p><p><br />To see more photos of the build go to <a href="http://www.mirru.com">www.mirru.com</a>. I was going to use it as my shop truck but when I closed the shop this truck became my toy.Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1175136726208763502007-03-28T20:40:00.000-07:002007-03-28T21:02:29.013-07:00One Hot Looking 1967 Ford F100<a href="http://www.mirru.com/f100/index.html"><img src="http://www.mirru.com/f100/images/45.jpg" width="500" border="0"></a><p>So I'm done with this 1967 Ford F100. Was a lot of work. Soo many dents and peeling paint, scratches. So much blocking, sanding and smoothing out. It was quiet a job but ended up looking so hot.<br /><br /><p>We used a Lamborghini orange color:<br /><br />Color Name: Arancio Atlas<br />Orange Metallic<br />PPG Code: *0058<br /><br />Plus over the top of that we applied Radiance candy coat, well actually five coats. Five coats of clear and this baby is awsome looking.<br /><br /><p>Check out the complete "photo documentary" of this project at <a href="http://www.mirru.com/f100/index.html">www.mirru.com/f100</a><p>I don't care if you are not into cars, you were obviously interrested enough to get this far, I am telling you this is awsome photos! I keep coming back to this page to look at this color. It is amaizing. <br /><br /><p>For this project I used one gallon of orange base coat for the body, one quart of cream base for the top, 3 quarts of PPG Radiance candy and one gallon of clear (the 4CR clear that I wrote about before, awsome clear).Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1159241754019638482006-09-25T20:05:00.000-07:002007-03-28T20:34:21.266-07:00Orange Metallic Paint Job<img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/f100.jpg"> <script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script><p>1967 Ford F100 is my new patient. It has rust here and there, dents and dings on almost every panel. It's antique custom orange paint is peeling off, the body panels do not line up with each other very well. I was entrusted to beat it back into shape.<br /><br />After all the body panels are cleaned up and straightened, this baby is going to get a orange crush with gold pearl paint job. I can already see it. <br /><br />Innitially I was going to paint it orange metallic but after talking to my paint supplier, I found out that orange paint is to dense and will not let the metallic be all that it should be. So even better, now I will have to use gold pearl to get the somewhat same, maybe better effect. <br /><br /><img src="http://216.55.190.32/idcow/products/12aa2000.jpg" width="150" hspace="10" vspace="10"> <img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/Arancio.jpg" hspace="10" vspace="10"><p>The original idea was a 2002 Lamborghini Diablo/Murcielago Color, Arancio Atlas.<br /><br />Color Name: Arancio Atlas<br />Orange Metallic<br />PPG Code: *0058<br /><br /><img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/supraf.jpg" width="150" align="left" hspace="10" vspace="10">This is the same color that the Orange Toyota Supra from The Fast And The Furious has. I actually have a whole page built about this Supra if you are interrested in reading about the build and specs of this car. Go to <a href="http://www.mirru.com/fastAndFurious.html">http://www.mirru.com/fastAndFurious.html</a>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1158850558363244392006-09-21T07:44:00.000-07:002007-03-28T20:59:28.046-07:00Clear Coat from Germany, CR4 Brand<img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/4cr.jpg" align="right" vspace="10" hspace="10"> I have discovered this clear about six months ago. My paint supplier brought it by one day and asked me to try it out. Ever since then my paint jobs have changed. This clear is so easy to work with and it lays down so nice. Plus it buffs easy too. About 3 weeks ago I put half as much reducer into the mix by accident and my clear came out like glass. No orange peel. So next time I did it again and it came out perfect again. Ever since then I have been adding very little reducer to the mix and coming otu with perfect glass like clear coat.<br /><br />I would reccomend to anyone that paints cars to try this clear if you've been having problems with orange peel.<br /><br />4CR 7100 Automotive Clear Coat <br />The mixing ratio is 4:2:1 - clear:hardner:reducer<br />This is a 2 coat clear.<br /><br />I wanted to write about this before but couldn't find the manufacturer's website or any information on it, so now I did.<br /><br />The web site address is www.4cr.de, it is a German product, their web site is in German but you can change the language on the top to English.<br /><br />They also have a 7200 version of this clear which uses no reducer at all, and it is a single coat clear. I just got this one this week and will try it out. We'll see how it does.Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1158119772985591762006-09-12T19:56:00.000-07:002007-03-28T21:00:28.873-07:00Roll pan for 1998 Toyota T-100<img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/t100/repair/rollpan.jpg" align="left" hspace="10" vspace="10">On my new (used) T-100 I decided to install a roll pan and get rid of my rear bumper. After spending hours online and looking through magazines, I could not find even one for a T-100.<br /><br />I looked up a company here in town that does sheet metal fabrication to have it fabricated. I traced out the patern from the quarter panel sides that come over to the back, under the bumper onto a paper and cut it out. Transfered the patern from the paper to a piece of cardboard to give to the fabricators.<br /><br />Them guys at the fabricator shop just tossed the patern. When I got the roll pan a week later it was way off of what I needed. The pattern I gave them was MIA. The rolled bends I needed them to make, they made with a brake, so now the bends that are suppose to be nice and smoothe, they have ridges on them, they made a bunch of brake bends to bend the metal into shape.<br /><br />I didn't take a pictures of it but I should have. Now I have to bondo the roll pan to make it smooth like I need it to be.<img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/t100/repair/rollpan2.jpg" align="left" hspace="10" vspace="10">Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1158030350220204422006-09-11T19:24:00.000-07:002007-03-28T21:00:10.016-07:00More on Paint Jobs & Paint Guns<img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/4sale/satajetNR2000/2.jpg" width="300" align="left" hspace="10" border="1">Having a nice paint gun sure helps a lot. I have used a cheapie, Sharpe gun for a long time before finding out the night and day difference of using a nice SATA gun.<br /><br />If you don't have a SATA or iWata gun and unsuccessful to get a nice paint job done, I can tell you, you're not going be able to do it.<br /><br />SATA is my choice. Never again will I use anything else. The rest is all garbage. If you've been painting off and on for a while, as soon as you get yourself a nice SATA gun you will have success!!! As soon as you start spraying you will see the difference. You are getting a nice spray pattern, the paint is getting distributed a lot more efficiently, you will feel a lot more confident spraying. It is life changing.<br /><br />The gun I use is SATAjet NR2000 digital. I bought it thinking, "digital, cool", now I see it really makes no difference if it has a digital pressure display or not. The gun performs just the same without. I think I looked at this display twice. You will be spending extra $50 to $100 on this luxury. No need.<br /><br />I recommend SATAjet NR2000. It will cost you from $420 to $550 new or about $290 used.<br /><br />There is a new gun that SATA has just released, it is SATAjet 3000, which should be pretty nice. But like I said, unnecessary. You will spend more for luxury.<br /><br />Also there is a SATAjet RP that is a nice gun, but I don't like the feel of it. I can't quiet explain what it is about it, but I just love my NR2000. The RPs are a little more expensive than NRs but not much to make a big deal about. If you don't know which one to get, get the NR2000 and you will be happy.<br /><br />There are three ways of getting a nice SATAjet gun.<br /><br />One is buying it brand new from your local paint supply store. You are going to get a nice setup for about $550 to $699. Your local supplier will be able to tell you all about it. Most of which will be true. A great product needs no salesman.<br /><br />Second way you can get your SATA is online. You can get it from an online store. Online as you know it, you can get things cheaper, about 10% to 20% off retail price. Here is a place you can buy one. The address is <a href="http://www.satagun.com">www.SATAgun.com</a>. All the places online that you can buy these SATAs will be different but the product is the same. The prices and the shipping fees are what you are looking for a deal on. You will get a good deal at <a href="www.satagun.com">www.SATAgun.com</a> without loosing confidence. The shipping is $15.00 for most gun setups. This store specializes in SATA guns so you can expect a nice selection.<br /><br />The third and the way you should get one is on eBay. Used SATAjet NR2000s sell for about $260 to $300 in good condition. These things are like Hondas, used only means it's been broke in, now you get to enjoy the benefits. Now you have to be careful about who you buy from on eBay. Make sure you read all the description and the terms. Make sure you count in the shipping fee before you bid, so you don't over spend. Make sure the gun is not broken and it has all the components, like the gun and the cup are there. Some guns I see sell without the cup and some people over pay for those.<br /><br />There you go, now you have some info to take to the store with you. Get the nice gun and stop driving your self crazy with the cheapie. Maybe your blood pressure will even drop. :)Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1147282117991174962006-05-10T10:26:00.000-07:002007-03-28T20:39:00.210-07:00After Market Fiber Glass PartsA customer brought in a car this week that needed a little work repairing a set of fiber glass after market bumpers on a 2000 Nissan Sentra. These bumpers were trashed. There were cracks everywhere and chunks were missing. <br /><br />Once I started working on it, one by one I kept finding new cracks. More and more, they are everywhere. These bumpers needed to be thrown away. This being a used car lot car, I had to do what they want me to do, even when it is crap work. So I used fiber glass resin to fill all the cracks and this turned out to be a bigger job then I expected. Next time I'll look closer, do a better inspection before bidding a job.<br /><br />These after market bumpers were secured with 4 screws each. They were flimsy just hanging there. I can only imagine what happened when this car was on the freeway or hit a bump.<br /><br />When installing an after market bumper that has no holes or attachment points on it, the best way to secure it is going to be matching the attachment points on the original bumper. Drill holes in the same places. Install any brackets that were on the OEM bumper onto the aftermarket one. It will need all the support it can get. I would even go further if you want it to stay on permanently and last longer then a week.<br /><br />Once all the brackets and screws are in, see if the bumper is still flimsy in some spots. Since this bumper is shaped differently than the original, you may need to fabricate some extra brackets to secure the areas that are not supported. <script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1144391360433089522006-04-06T23:14:00.000-07:002007-03-28T20:39:15.006-07:00One Expensive Air Bag Module<img src="http://www.mirru.com/ebay/abmod/1.jpg" alt="2005 Nissan Altima Air Bag Module" width="300" align="right" hspace="10" vspace="10">After a while I decided to just go ahead and shell out the $800 (not $700 as I previously thought) and get the brand new air bag module. When I ordered the module at Nissan, they told me I had to wait for it for a week. When I went to pick it up, I asked about their refund policy on it in case the module is not causing the problem my car is experiencing, they said "There isn't one". I asked, "So it's mine as soon as I walk out that door?", he goes, "more like it's already yours".<br /><br /><img src="http://www.mirru.com/ebay/abmod/3.jpg" alt="2005 Nissan Altima Air Bag Module" width="300" align="left" hspace="10" vspace="10">Alright... I took it down to the shop, plugged it in, stick the key in, turn it to the on position and start the car. The air bag indicator light on the dash is on. After about 5 seconds it goes off. YEAH!!!! It worked. That's all it took. Well $800 is all it took.<br /><br />After all the time I spent fiddling with the wires, checking the resistance and checking the connectors. It is finally done. <br /><br />I built a page where you can see the photos of my Altima before and after the repair. You can see it at <a href="http://www.mirru.com/altima1.html" >www.mirru.com</a>. <script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1142965864841919262006-03-21T10:19:00.000-08:002007-03-28T20:39:26.906-07:00Bad SRS Module - '05 AltimaOk, problems again. The air bag module that I received with the air bags is off a different car. I took my '05 Altima to the Nissan to have the SRS indicator light turned off. The tried and told me it won't clear.<br /><br />I did some testing and it appears the module wants a off switch for the passenger side air bag. Well my car doesn't have one.<br /><br />If I didn't thrrow the old SRS module away I could have had it reprogrammed. I now find out that there is a guy in Texas that can reprogram the "blown" SRS modules. He charges $150, you send him yours, he reprograms it and sends it back to you.<br /><br />That's a great deal compared to buying a new one for $700+. I can't even find a blown one used. I don't know what I am going to do now. Waiting is the name of the game now. <br /><br />If by chance you have a SRS module for a 2005 Nissan Altima (production date 6/04) with front airbags and no side bags, please sell it to me!! Or if you have a blown one with the same specs, let me know. The part number is 28556ZB29A.<br /><br />Email me valik@mirru.com<br /><br />The SRS Module Reprogrammer:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.airbags-oem.com/">Airbags-OEM</a><br />Kevin Ashworth<br />7722 Calypso Dr.<br />Rowlett, TX 75088<br />1-877-636-2247 <script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1142393965356747982006-03-14T19:37:00.000-08:002007-03-28T20:39:36.630-07:002005 Nissan Altima Door Handle RemovalOnce I start assembling the car I seem to find out the procedures that I was suppose to follow to disassemble it. In my earlier post I wrote about the problems I ran into while trying to remove the door handle on my 2005 Nissan Altima. Yesterday as I was assembling the car, I found out that I didn't have to take the door completely apart to remove the handle.<br /><br />Here is an easier way to do this.<br /><br />1. Remove the interior door panel.<br />2. Remove the electric window switch panel from the interior panel and hook it back up to the wiring harness.<br />3. Peel off the round stickers covering the openings in the door "guts" cover plate. One towards the front of the car and one towards the back, about the middle of the panel vertically. The stickers may be the same color the panel is so you will need to look closely.<br />4. Adjust the window so you can see the screws through the round openings, by opening or closing the window.<br />5. Remove the screws, but make sure you are holding the glass from the top in case it will want to slip down.<br />6. Once the screws are out, pull the glass out, rear first.<br />7. Remove all the screws that hold the cover panel in. Those are the ones around the edge of the panel. Should be 4 on the top, one on each side and 3 on the bottom. (I am writing this from memory, so there may be 3 or 4 on top and bottom. I just went through this yesterday, it's still fresh in my mind but can't recall the number of screws, sorry).<br />8. Pull the panel bottom first, straight out about an inch or so and then slide the whole thing down to clear the window slider rails.<br />9. Now you should have a clear way to remove the front screw of the door handle.<br />10. To remove the back screw, stick the socket through the opening in the door body right above the lock. You are going to have to guide the socket with your hand through the rubber seals and to the screw. Guide it back out when the screw is loose because the socket will get stuck trying to get back out through all the rubber weather stripping.<br />11. You will notice that the handle won't want to come right out even with the screws out. You will need to push it from the inside, top first.<br /><br />At least this is an easier way than what I had to go through not knowing how this thing is put together. <br /><br />Good luck. <script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1142107716905288362006-03-11T12:03:00.000-08:002007-03-28T20:39:49.643-07:00Painting - No Orange PeelPainting cars is not as hard as it seems, painting cars well is a whole different story. I've been painting cars for about 6 years now off and on. Maybe about 4 to 5 per year. Having such big gaps of time between paint jobs really prevented me from really getting the hang of painting well. Some things I remember some I forget.<br /><br />In September of 2005 I started my own body shop, now I get to paint a lot more and I seem to be learning a lot more, faster. I built a make shift paint booth in my shop, made 2 openings for filters. One in, one out from the booth into the shop. It didn't work so good. The over spray stayed in the booth and created streaks in some metallic paint jobs. I finally invested in a nice exhaust fan, now everything gets blasted out of the booth and the shop. <br /><br />Back to the topic of this post. I have always had problems with having more than descent orange peel effect in the clear coat. Even after buying a nice SATAjet 2000 paint gun, I was still seeing more orange peel than I want. It just creates more wet sanding work afterwards. <br /><br />A couple of days ago while painting I accidentally turned up the pressure on the gun and while laying down a coat of clear I noticed it that it was laying down differently. It was laying down flat. So I conclude, to get a flatter clear coat in your paint job, turn up the pressure of your gun so it "mists" the clear on instead of spraying it on. I mean it will break down the solids to where they will lay down nice and straight.<br /><br />I wish I could have found an article like this when I was having problems with my clear. I hope this helps someone. <script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1141200829392135212006-03-01T00:10:00.000-08:002006-03-01T00:13:49.406-08:00DuPont Exploring New HorizonsDuPont has entered joint venture with a Russian auto finishes manufacturer, Russkie Kraski Corp. They are creating a new company, DuPont Russian Coatings LLC, which will supply automotive coatings to manufacturers of automobiles in Russia and former Soviet republics. They will use both parties' technology to create a better product for Russian automotive industry.<br /><br />Russkie Kraski is the largest manufacturer of automotive finishes in the Russian Federation. They have a sophisticated research and development, sales and marketing capabilities.<br /><br />DuPont Russian Coatings will supply the carmakers of Russia, Belarus and Ukraine with high quality coatings for passenger cars, trucks and buses. <br /><br /><i><a href="http://www2.dupont.com/Media_Center/en_US/daily_news/article20060206.html">More Info</a></i>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1141058514357198612006-02-27T08:25:00.000-08:002006-02-27T08:42:43.776-08:00How Cars Work 101 - Animated<a href="http://www.innerauto.com/Automotive_Systems"><img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/apn/ap.gif" border="1" hspace="5" align="right" alr="Inner Auto Parts"></a>Inner Auto Parts has put together a very interesting "How Cars Work 101" page. An extensive animated illustration of how different components and systems work in a typical car. From the engine to the Safety Restrain System (SRS), Fuel Injection, Drive Train. <br /><br />I have spent about an hour going through these and haven't even got through half of them. Had to share it.<br /><br />These animations do use Java so you'll need to make sure you have it installed.<br /><br /><i><a href="http://www.innerauto.com/Automotive_Systems">Inner Auto Parts - How Cars Work 101</a></i>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1140985177611415122006-02-26T11:45:00.000-08:002006-02-26T12:22:01.276-08:00Crappy Replacement Parts by GMReplacing the door hinge pins.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.totalauto.com/img/our_exclusive_hinge_kit/DeluxeKitDiagramSmallSize.gif" border="1" hspace="5" alt="GM OEM Hinge" width="450"><p>1. Grind off the bottoms of the pins.<br /><br />2. Use the hinge pin removal tool to press the pin ou tof hte bracket. Do not pound the pins out like the manufacturer instructs you to do. It will bend the brackets and they will no longer rotate on a true axis. The bushings, pins and brackets will wear out in a short time and the complete bracket will need to be replaced. The cost and labor can come out to be about $800 (8 hours of labor and $130 for the replacement kit).<br /><br />3. Remove the bottom pin first for easier access to the upper pin.<br /><br />A lot of complaints have been received about the only pin replacement kit that was on the market. The pins snapped when tightening the nuts drawing the pin into the original factory bracket.<br /><br />The brackets are made of 1018 steel that is rated at 58,000 psi. The replacement pin is made of 12L 14 screw stock, which is rated at 57,000 psi. The pin is suppose to cut groves into the bracket to resit properly. So, how is the pin that is softer suppose to be able to cut into the harder bracket? <br /><br />Another problem is that the pins and nuts even though zinc plated, will in a short time wear off and rust. The pins also have rough machining groves that will wear out the bushings a lot sooner.<br /><br />GM has put out a bulletin about these very replacement kits being available to the repair shops. Makes me wonder if they cared to test them before endorsing this stuff.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.totalauto.com/img/our_exclusive_hinge_kit/PinAndBushingKitLarge.jpg" border="1" hspace="5" align="right" width="300" alt="Total Automotive Pin Replacement Kit">Total Automotive, an OEM Parts Specialist has performed testing on these replacement kits and has designed a better replacement kit, that will last a lot longer. These pins are made of stainless steel and rated at 90,000 psi. CNC machined smooth to rotate without drag. The kits come with a 12 month or 12,000 mile parts and labor warranty providing the pins were correctly removed using the Total Automotive pin removal tool.<br /><br />For the repair shops that have the original replacement kits in stock, Total Automotive has established a product buy back program that will let you trade in the original kits in for credit.<br /><br />Total Automotive has put together an extensive presentation about this on their website. You can also contact the by phone at 1-800-450-750.<br /><br /><i><a href="http://www.totalauto.com">Total Automotive</a></i>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1140897951583183662006-02-25T11:55:00.000-08:002006-03-10T20:10:00.166-08:00Altezza Lights Myth<a href="http://www.coolights.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=916"><img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/apn/alteza1.jpg" border="0" alt="Dodge Ram" hspace="5" align="left"></a>Altezza euro taillights are rear brake/taillights that have a clear lens over top of red or amber lamps. Their sleek design gives vehicles a sporty and modern look and can be easily installed to replace your factory taillights. This unique style was first introduced by Toyota in Europe on its Alteeza model sedan. Due to their popularity they are now usually referred to as European Altezza, Euro taillights or simply Euro tails.<br /><br />The Altezza was marketed in North America as the Lexus IS300, but the Altezza name stuck, once the brake light design was adapted to other vehicles. Since then, many companies have begun manufacturing aftermarket taillights for trucks, cars, vans and SUVs, making euro tails a must have when customizing your vehicle.<br /><br />Some people still confuse altezza euro taillights with "completely clear taillights" (no red at all). In fact, completely clear taillights are illegal in most places and no longer available to the public. Most of euro tails now are manufactured to be D.O.T and SAE compliant. <br /><br />Many taillights are available in 4 styles which are: Crystal Clear, Carbon Fiber, Bermuda Black and Platinum Smoke. The color refers only to the housing of the taillights, because the lenses are almost always clear. Choose the crystal clear style lights for light colored vehicles (especially white), bermuda black or carbon fiber for dark colored vehicles and platinum smoke for grey or silver vehicles. Of course it's all up to your own personal style!<br /><br /><img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/apn/alteza2.jpg" border="1" hspace="5" align="left" alt="Altezza Lights">Euro Taillights are one of the easiest aftermarket accessories to install! <br /> <br />TYC, APC and In.Pro Car Wear are currently, the main manufacturer's of altezza euro taillights. Tons of makes and models are now available (Chevy, Ford, Dodge, Jeep etc.) for most years, new and old. Whether your vehicle is an older model 1973 or a brand new 2005, chances are altezza style euro tail lights are an accessory option for you. It's hard to imagine a "tricked" out ride without them.<br /><br />This article was written by - <a href="www.coolights.com">Coolights.com</a>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1140797052680923242006-02-24T07:56:00.000-08:002006-02-24T08:06:42.810-08:0014 HP Gain Plus 5 FT LBS of TorqueAn article from the S3 magazine about MagnaFlow's auto parts, bolt-on exhaust system tells you how to obtain an extra 15 wheel horsepower by letting your ride breathe better. Here is the first part of that article, you can read the rest on their site at <a href="http://www.magnaflow.com/05news/magazine/s3_11_05.asp">MagnaFlow</a>.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.magnaflow.com/05news/magazine/s3/11_05_cover.jpg" align="right" hspace="5" border="1" alt="Performance Auto Parts"><blockquote>Straight from the think backward department comes the news that when it comes to getting more fuel and sir into the engine, the most efficient and cost effective route is to make a bigger path available for spent exhaust to get out of the engine. The faster the exhaust can get out the way, the more air and fuel the engine can take in. The more air and fuel the engine can take in the more power it can make. And so on. This news is especially true for a turbo quipped ride. When considering an exhaust upgrade the entire exhaust path all at once. Improvements from the exhaust port on the head all the Way to the tip on the muffler will clear the path to performance. To take advantage of the new and improved exhaust path out of the engine some steps should be taken to improve intake flow as well. While a muffler upgrade on its own may not yield any noticeable horsepower improvement, a manifold or cat-back system can bring noticeable results from the old butt dyno, along with the sweet sound of engine music to your ears. The best kind of exhaust upgrade is the one you can feel and hear when you mash the loud pedal.</blockquote><br /><br />MagnaFlow Performance Auto PartsValikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1140711734157140922006-02-23T08:15:00.000-08:002006-02-23T08:23:22.973-08:00More Nissan NightmaresA couple postings back I wrote about my Nissan Altima. I was frustrated with it, because of the airbags issue and the door handle removal procedure.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/apn/altimadr.jpg" border="1" hspace="5" align="right">I don't think I mentioned the door handle. To remove the door handle from the front doors, the inner door panel has to be removed, which is normal. But there is no access to the two handle screws. All you see is a big sheet metal panel that covers all the inner mechanics of the door. Once you loosen the panel, you find out that you can't remove it. The window motor and all the power windows system is attached to this panel. You loosen all the "guts" from this panel, then you can easily remove the panel. Now you have all these "guts" hanging everywhere out of this door. It is easy to remove the handle at this point.<br /><br />I don't think I am the only one that finds this procedure a little uncomfortable.<br /><br />I am starting to think that when they design cars they actually try to make it complicated to change parts so you would take the car in to the repair shop. So they then can charge a bunch of money because it is a complicated procedure.Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1140620946491031222006-02-22T07:08:00.000-08:002006-02-22T07:09:06.506-08:00'57 Chevy Trunk Lid<img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/apn/trunk.jpg" align="left" hspace="5" border="1">Sherman & Associates has designed a complete trunk lid for the 1957 Chevrolet. These trunk lids include complete welded inner and outer panels as well as all the cut outs, mounting holes, and components to mount the trunk latch and emblems.<br /><br />“The result of our design,” said James Sherman, president of Sherman & Associates, "is a one piece trunk lid just like the original". Now restorers of these classics have an option that produces a much better looking finished product than the outer trunk lid skin which was formerly the only part offered to those with rusted trunk lids. “All they have to do,” Sherman continued, “is prep, paint and hang the trunk lid.”<br /><br />All components for the new Sherman “Exact-Fit” trunk lid are die formed from electro-galvanized steel which is phosphate treated for immediate paintability. These trunk lids are produced in the U.S. by an experienced automotive stamping supplier. They are freight shippable anywhere in the world. Like all Sherman repair panels, they provide the high standards of fit and finish both amateur and professional restorers have come to expect from Sherman products.<br /><br />In addition to the 1957 fully assembled trunk lids, Sherman stocks a full line of exterior and underbody sheetmetal repair panels for these classic Chevrolet and other General Motors vehicles, as well as vehicles built by Chrysler, Ford and many import cars and trucks.<br /><br />Sherman’s giant 2005-2006 catalog contains thousands of autobody sheetmetal panels, header panels, radiators, condensers, and many hard to find specialty items and accessories. Sherman’s full catalog is online at http://store.shermanparts.com.<br /><br /><i><a href="http://store.shermanparts.com">Sherman Parts</a></i>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1140542386316404592006-02-21T08:53:00.000-08:002006-02-21T09:20:53.556-08:002005 Nissan Altima Parts<img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/apn/altima.jpg" border="1" hspace="5"><p>Replacing the SRS on a 2005 Nissan Altima is a bit complicated. If you happen to have a 2005 Altima that needs the SRS replaced, it will be quiet obvious that your dash board is toast. That's right, the whole dash board is ruined.<br /><br />Ususally, at least in my experience, when the air bags blow out, the passenger side is always in it's own little removable section of the dash. Well, Nissan designers went beyond that. They desided it will be much more fut to have to replace the whole dash instead of a little insert.<br /><br />This is one of a list of problesm that Nissan has that really bother me. I am pretty sure that I will never own another Nissan. Even though I really like the body shape and stance of the new Altima.<br /><br />One nice thing about working on the front end is that when the car is hit in the front, the whole core support is plastic and is completelly removable from the front of the car ($185).<br /><br />The headlights are not that expencive ($185 ea) either, considering their size.<br /><br />The fenders and the front bumper reinforcement is available aftermarket, interchangeable with 2002 and up. Front bumper cover is about what you would expect, $214.<br /><br />Overall, I like the desent parts prices and aftermarket parts availability for a brand new car. I would not want to work on it again though.Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1140456226752036952006-02-20T09:20:00.000-08:002006-02-20T09:23:46.766-08:00Cars Living Longer<img src="http://www.mirru.com/images/apn/mustang.jpg" border="1" hspace="5" align="right" alt="Better Auto Parts">The average age of a car in the US last year was 9 years. <br /><br />Ten years ago it was 7.5 years. <br /><br />In 2005 almost 35% of passenger cars on the roads were 11 years old, compared to 29 percent in 1996. 4.3% of all passenger cars were destroyed for scrap or parts which is the lowest since 1949.<br /><br />With car manufacturers improving technology and quality of the product they produce it is no wonder the cars are getting better and better. <br /><br />The parts are made of better alloys and finished with the proper primers and sealers. Automotive paint is improving too, protecting the cars from UV and moisture.<br /><br />The engines are designed with perfection and built to last.<br /><br />Replacement auto parts are also becoming better and more affordable for car owners.<br /><br />"As vehicle durability and technology continues to improve each year, we expect the trend of increased vehicle longevity to continue." said Dave Goebel, a consultant for Polk's Aftermarket Solutions, in a company announcement.Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1140369475736417412006-02-19T09:10:00.000-08:002006-02-19T09:17:55.750-08:00Adjustable Coilovers<img src="http://www.speedstash.com/dropzone/coilovers_red.jpg" border="1" hspace="5" align="left">Lowering your vehicle not only gives the aggressive look of a sports car, but it increases cornering and provides a quicker response to ground-to-steering ratio.<br /><br />Dropzone Suspension is the leading manufacturer of performance coilovers and lowering springs. The newly engineered coilovers made of pure stainless steel are powdercoated red and will never rust, fade or strip.<br /><br />Here is some of it's features.<br /><br />- 0-4" adjustable drop<br />- Adjusting wrenches included<br />- Lifetime Warranty from Dropzone Suspension® <br /><br />Carefully configured spring rates and height adjustability provide incredible handling, response, control and balance. With a drop rate of 0-4 inches, you can instantly slam your vehicle onto the ground in the summer, and raise it back in the winter with no extra tools. Dropzone has eliminated the bounce and flicker of competing coilovers to develop the world's finest in handling and style. And with our warehouse direct prices, we can offer them to you 30% below retail price. As seen in hundreds of car shows nationwide.<br /><br />DROPZONE is one of only coilover companies that offers a limited LIFETIME WARRANTY on the product!Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22262360.post-1140278825608362592006-02-18T07:56:00.000-08:002006-02-18T08:09:27.896-08:00Composite Auto PartsThis day there are so many composite materials that the car's parts consist of that it is hard to keep up with it. I as a body shop owner address all the issues the same way. I use the plastic bumper filler to fix any scratches of damage on bumpers ro any other plastic/composite material auto part. The article at <a href="www.abrn.com">ABRN</a> tell the story a bit more in detail. I learned a lot from it and hope you pick up some techniques and ideas from it.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.abrn.com/abrn/data/articlepictorial/abrn/492003/77631/ABRN1103_MS3.gif" border="0" align="right" hspace"5"><blockquote><b>Repairability of Composites</b><br />With an understanding of why the OEM manufacturers have increased the use of composites in todayÂs automobiles, this question must be asked: Can we repair these materials and if so, how do we repair them? The answer to this question is a simple Âyes. Any composite being used on an automobile today can be repaired. This statement can be made because of the improvements adhesive repair material companies have made throughout the past few years. They no longer need a wall chart that only an engineer is able to understand. Several years ago, you needed anywhere from five to eight products sitting on the shelf just to address bumper cover repair. With the demand for simplicity placed on the adhesive repair material companies, the materials needed on hand have been reduced down to one or two products. The OEMs are also leaning in the direction of specification-based repair and repair materials that meet a spec set by the automobile manufacturer. This will help reduce the possibility for failed repairs even further. DaimlerChrysler has introduced its composite repair deck, a tool designed to identify repair methods and products that meet its standards. Ford Motor Co. and GM have Tech Service Bulletins addressing their specs for products and repair procedures. <a href="http://www.abrn.com/abrn/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=77631">Read More >></a><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><i>This article is written by <a href="http://www.abrn.com/abrn/author/authorInfo.jsp?id=1770">Ed Staquet</a> <br /><a href="http://www.abrn.com">Automotive Body Repair News</a> </i>Valikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13748350505939484260noreply@blogger.com0